Nintendo GameCube Repair Reference

This page covers the Nintendo GameCube: the launch DOL-001, the cost-reduced DOL-101, the Brazilian DOL-002, and the Panasonic Q (SL-GC10) as a delta from the standard machine. Across NTSC-U, NTSC-J and PAL.

Two things before you read further, because both change how you should weight what follows.

First: I have not had a GameCube apart on my own bench. This page is built from documentation, community references and board photographs, not from my own repair count. That is a real limitation. Where I would normally say “I see this constantly,” I have said “the sources report” instead, and you should read those as the community’s frequency claims rather than mine. The data tables at the bottom carry per-item confidence tags for the same reason. Nothing on this page is tagged bench, because nothing here is my measurement.

Second: there is no OEM service manual or schematic for this console, and there is not going to be one. That is a two-source negative, not an assumption I have made. So there is nothing to net-trace against. Ground truth on the GameCube is board photographs, silicon die shots, technical wikis, and the source files of open hardware projects. Several things a schematic would normally settle — most painfully the console-side power connector’s pin map — end in “buzz it on the bench,” and I have left those as empty stubs rather than filling them from memory.

The organising idea for this machine is a single hardware deletion: the DOL-101 dropped the Digital AV Out port, and with it every lossless HDMI path. Almost everything commercially interesting about a GameCube resolves to which side of that line a board sits on, so that comes first.

Safety first: the +12 V that kills consoles

Two hazards on this platform, and neither is a shock risk to you. They are both risks to hardware, and both come from 12 V sitting on a pin next to signals that expect 3.3 V.

The Digital AV Out port carries +12 V on pin 5. This is 2-source confirmed and it is the top technician-caused failure on the GameCube. A short from pin 5 to any data line instantly kills the console, and it is generally not recoverable. Every plug-in HDMI adapter and every internal GCVideo install goes near this pin.

The discipline is simple and it goes before power-on, not after:

• Find pin 1 by the square pad and confirm the connector orientation against it. Pin 1’s identity, its function as the cable-detect line, and its square-pad location are all 2-source confirmed, so this is a check you can trust.
• Inspect for any solder bridge in the neighbourhood of pin 5 before you apply power the first time.
• Keep the 54 MHz clock run short. GCVideo’s own README warns about run length explicitly, and a long run gives you an install that half works, which is a worse problem than one that plainly does not.

On a PAL GameCube, analog Multi Out pin 3 can carry +12 V where an NTSC console puts composite sync. Plug an NTSC SNES CSync cable into a PAL GameCube and you route 12 V down the sync line into your display or upscaler. The connector is mechanically identical across the whole Nintendo Multi Out family, so nothing stops the mistake. This is the same trap I document on the SNES page for PAL SNES units, and it bites for the same reason. Region-match your analog cables.

Neither of these will hurt you. If you want the console in my reference set that can actually bite a person, that is the Game Gear with its +34 V bias rail and kilovolt backlight inverter.

Know your board first

You can grade a GameCube completely without opening it. Look at the rear I/O and the bottom.

The Digital AV Out port is the only tell that cannot lie. Three traps sit around the others:

• The bottom sticker rides on a swappable shell. DOL-001 and DOL-101 shells interchange, and units have turned up with a DOL-001 case over DOL-101 internals and the reverse. Grade the board, not the case, not the nameplate, not the sticker.
• A missing Serial Port 2 does not prove a DOL-101. Late DOL-CPU-30 boards dropped SP2 while keeping the Digital AV Out port, and those are DOL-001 boards with a full digital video path. This cuts both ways commercially: a seller grading by SP2 undervalues a late DOL-001, and a buyer doing the same overpays for a DOL-101.
• The digital port’s plastic cover proves nothing either way, because it is a separate removable part on the shell.

Inside, the boards are silkscreened DOL-CPU-xx, PAL boards DOL-CPU(P)-xx, and a leading C/ most likely denotes Chinese manufacture. The revision map:

The boot ROM revision tracks the board revision, so an IPL CRC is a useful secondary ID: NTSC 1.0 is 6DAC1F2A, 1.1 is D5E6FEEA, and 1.2 splits into D235E3F9 on late DOL-001 and 86573808 on DOL-101. PAL 1.0 is 4F319F43 and PAL 1.2 is AD1B7F16. The Brazilian MPAL 1.1 is 667D0B64.

There is also a family of very early pre-production boards silkscreened DOL-CPU-X, -X3 and -X6, and some early Japanese boards carry no DOL-CPU-xx marking at all. The X3 is a curiosity: it has an analog A/V connector where the digital port normally sits. These are collector oddities, not something you will meet on a refurb bench.

Common problems and fixes

Ordered by how often the community reports each one, which is a triage prior rather than measured data. Nobody has published GameCube failure statistics.

Won’t read discs, or boots straight to the menu

This is the dominant GameCube fault by a wide margin. The console powers, the drive may spin and seek and click, and either discs fail to read or the machine drops to the memory-card menu as if nothing is inserted.

The first thing to understand is that “boots straight to the memory card screen” is usually a read fault, not a video or software fault. The console cannot authenticate a disc, so it presents the boot menu. Do not go chasing the video chain over it.

Several independent root causes stack under this one symptom, so work them cheapest first:

1. Dirty or hazed objective lens. Clean it with 99% isopropyl on a swab, no scrubbing. Intermittent reads that get worse toward the outer tracks point here.
2. Laser power drift at the drive-board trim POT. The POT is designated VR-401 on the drive PCB. Two things about it. First, go DOWN first, in small increments — over-turning burns the laser diode and there is no recovery from that. Second, ignore the resistance “targets” you will find quoted: they range from about 100 ohms to 600 ohms across sources, which means there is no target. Tune by result.
3. Drive-PCB electrolytics. This is the one board on the GameCube that genuinely fails from bad capacitors, as opposed to benefiting from a preventative recap. RetroSix singles out C238 (220 µF 4 V) as the common failure point causing disc read errors, and ConsoleMods names C408 and C431 (47 µF 4 V) for “issues playing discs” and has GameCube optical drive caps on its “Well-Known Bad Capacitors” list. Recap the drive board on any no-read that survives steps 1 and 2. Full designator list in the cap tables below.
4. Worn pickup. Won’t read even at the extremes of the POT after a clean and a recap. Classic presentation is clicking, resetting, and never spinning up to read.
5. Spindle or ribbon. If the laser searches but the disc never spins up, reseat the drive interface ribbon and check spindle continuity before condemning anything expensive.

On a unit you intend to sell, the realistic calculation at step 4 is usually to stop repairing the drive and fit an optical drive emulator instead, which removes the platform’s most common fault from the fault tree permanently. More on that in the mods section.

No power, or won’t stay on

Walk it in cost order.

Meter the brick first. Only 12 V ever enters this console — the DOL-002 brick puts out a single 12 V DC rail, labelled 3.25 A on the USA unit, and Wikipedia rates the adapter 46 W on DOL-001 and 48 W on DOL-101, which is consistent. Every lower rail is made on board. So confirm 12 V at the brick output before you open anything.

Then the internal DC-DC daughtercard. The 12 V feeds a removable regulator board that makes the console’s logic rails. It comes in several vendor variants — Mitsumi, Sharp, TDK — with distinct capacitor complements, all listed below. Buzz its output. Its own bulk caps are rated 2.5 V to 6.3 V, which is itself the tell that this card is the buck stage.

A caveat I have to be straight about: the pin map of the console-side power connector is not publicly documented anywhere I could source. No downloadable pinout assigns 12 V, ground, or any pre-regulated rail to specific pins. Do not assume centre-versus-edge polarity, and do not trust a remembered pinout — this is exactly the shape of question that gets a confident wrong answer from a search engine or a language model. Buzz it against a known-good brick.

Then the main board. The logic board carries only a handful of SMD electrolytics and they are generally reliable, so a mainboard recap here is preventative rather than corrective. Values are per revision and the population shrinks as the revisions progress, so read the board rather than the model number.

Then the silicon, which in practice means a donor board. A dead Flipper or Gekko is not economically repairable against what a working console costs.

Powers up, then shuts off after a few minutes

Fan or thermal paste. A stalled or dust-choked fan and a failing rail both present as brief-on, and a fan spin and airflow check discriminates them in seconds, so do that first. The stock fan is a 50 x 10 mm 12 V part drawing about 50 mA, the same assembly on DOL-001 and DOL-101, and replacements are cheap and plentiful.

If the fan is spinning freely and the vents are clear, the next candidate is dried thermal interface on the Flipper and Gekko heat spreaders. Reseat and repaste.

Worth doing proactively on a refurb: a fan that has started to rattle is on a short path to a stall, and a stall becomes a thermal cutout. It is a cheap part and it is the difference between a console that works and one that comes back.

All four controller ports dead, console otherwise fine

Distinctive enough to be almost diagnostic on its own. The controller ports and the memory card slots share a front-panel PPTC resettable fuse, and when it trips or fails open you lose all of them at once while the console still boots and reads discs happily. Points at the fuse, not at Flipper’s serial interface.

Because it is resettable, the first move is not to replace anything: power down, let it cool, and see if the ports come back. A fuse that trips repeatedly is telling you something downstream is drawing current it should not — most likely a controller or a memory card, so test with the ports empty.

The 7-pin port and its two separately-fused rails are part of a longer story that starts with an off-the-shelf shift register in an NES pad: Controllers: How Five Consoles Read a Button.

One dead port while the other three work is not this fuse. That is the port’s own solder joints or its connector, and the front-panel controller-port board is replaceable as a unit.

The two rails the fuse protects leave on the controller connector: 5 V on pin 1 for the rumble motor, and 3.43 V logic on pin 6. Those pin numbers come from a single source, so treat them as a strong hint rather than gospel.

Powers and reads, but no picture

Rule out a read fault first, because a no-read dropping to the boot menu looks a lot like “no game video.” With a confirmed-good disc:

Start with the cable, because the analog outputs are region-split and this is the single most common cause of a “broken” GameCube that is fine. An NTSC console (US or Japanese) gives you composite and S-Video and no native RGB at all. A PAL console gives you composite and native RGB but no S-Video. Neither does 480p over analog — progressive output only exists on the digital path, on DOL-001, and needs the software to support it. So an RGB SCART cable on an NTSC GameCube gets you a black screen, and so does an S-Video cable on a PAL one, and neither is a fault.

Then, if there has been a digital-out mod, the tap. Blank HDMI with a working analog Multi Out picture localises the fault to the digital port connection rather than to Flipper’s video block. Scope the 54 MHz clock at the port; it must be present and clean. Reflow the tap and shorten the run.

Then the on-board analog encoder, which is rare. Analog dead while the digital port is fine (on a DOL-001) isolates it. This is board-level work, and I have to flag a gap: the part identity of the on-board analog video encoder is not sourced anywhere I could find. If you have read the marking off one, I would genuinely like to know.

Then Flipper, if nothing works on either path and everything else is flaky too. Donor board.

Snowy, wavy or lined analog picture

Aged main-board and DC-DC electrolytics, worse on the older DOL-CPU-01 through -30 boards. RetroSix explicitly lists video noise alongside disc read errors as an aged-capacitor symptom. Recap the main board and the DC-DC card.

Dead immediately after a digital-out mod

Covered in the safety section, and it belongs here too because it is the top technician-caused failure on the platform and a genuine margin killer. A short from Digital AV pin 5 (+12 V) to any data line kills the console instantly, and after the event you are usually looking at blown rails and blown silicon. Prevention is the entire fix.

A DOL-101 cannot suffer this specific failure because it has no digital port — but DOL-101 digital mods tap their own points on the board, so treat any 12 V-adjacent solder with the same care.

Audio faults

One analog channel dead or crackling is a cold joint or an aged cap on the Multi Out audio path (pins 11 and 12). Reflow, then recap.

“No 5.1” or “no surround” is not a fault. Dolby Pro Logic II on this console is a two-channel matrix encode carried inside the ordinary stereo pair. There is no discrete multichannel hardware path to fail; a receiver decodes the matrix. Nothing to fix console-side.

No digital audio through an HDMI adapter is an adapter-side setting or an untapped I2S trio, not a console fault. GCVideo can synthesise SPDIF from the same port.

Reads originals but rejects burned or import discs

Also not a fault. GameCube discs are encrypted with a key derived from the Burst Cutting Area, a barcode most DVD drives cannot read, and Nintendo additionally cuts six radial marks just outside it with a high-power YAG laser. The drive reads the BCA, seeks to the sector it names, and verifies the physical defect is where it should be, decrypting on the fly in the drive controller. No consumer burner can author that.

There is no cartridge-style lockout chip anywhere in this machine. Region enforcement lives in software, in the boot ROM — which is why a boot-disc save exploit plus Swiss gets you cross-region and homebrew with zero hardware modification.

Inside the family: what differs

Everything lives in Flipper, and that is diagnostically useful. The GPU, the memory interface northbridge, the audio DSP, the video interface, the controller serial interface and the EXI expansion bus are all inside one package. So a dead Flipper takes out nearly everything simultaneously, while a targeted fault — no video but working audio, dead controllers with a healthy picture — points away from the Flipper core and toward that block’s output stage, its clocks, or its rails. That single piece of architecture is the most useful thing to hold in your head when triaging one of these.

Two memory pools, and community threads mix them up constantly. Main RAM is 24 MB of MoSys 1T-SRAM in two 12 MB packages at 324 MHz. ARAM is a separate, slower 16 MB DRAM pool at 81 MHz that holds audio sample data and buffers streamed data off the disc. They are not interchangeable in a fault description.

Regions differ in three places at once: the analog video encoder, the boot ROM, and (on NTSC) an internal jumper. NTSC-J and NTSC-U boards differ only by that jumper, which is brought out officially on development units. PAL machines get a multilingual boot ROM and no semi-official region switch.

The Brazilian DOL-002 is a US DOL-001 renamed to match its power brick number, and it is the only GameCube with software-switchable colour encoding: it can output NTSC or PAL-M. No commercial software ever used PAL-M, though Swiss supports it.

The Panasonic Q (SL-GC10) is a modified NTSC-J GameCube board — the silkscreen still reads DOL-CPU-10 or -11, and the boot ROM is NTSC 1.0 — married to a modified Panasonic DVD-RV31 mechanism. The GameCube signal map applies unchanged. What is added is a separate failure surface: the DVD mechanism, the front VFD, the Q’s own power supplies, and an output PCB that reroutes the analog video. A DVD-side no-play is an RV31 fault independent of GameCube game reads. The Q keeps its Digital AV Out port, which is extended rather than reworked and passes game video only, so GCVideo-class digital mods and PicoBoot both apply with Q-specific wiring. Its Toslink output works for media discs only, and it uses a dedicated Game Boy Player, the SH-GB10.

One useful asset exists for the Q that exists nowhere else on this platform: an OEM schematic scan of the SL-GC10 DVD mechanism is on archive.org. As far as I know it is the only schematic-grade GameCube-family document in existence.

Mods worth knowing

I am not reproducing anyone’s install guide. This is an orientation to what is worth doing and where the money actually is, plus the traps that cost real money on a resale build.

The rule that governs all of it: check the board, not the case. Two deletions on the DOL-101 decide what is even possible, and they are the Digital AV Out port and Serial Port 2.

PicoBoot — the modern IPL modchip

Open-source firmware for a Raspberry Pi Pico that takes over the console’s boot path and auto-boots a payload — in practice Swiss, renamed ipl.dol — off an SD card. Region-free loading, homebrew, and an SD front-end without a boot disc. It works on DOL-001, DOL-101 and the Panasonic Q, because it does not care whether the digital port exists.

Two install facts worth knowing before you quote the job. The board-side solder points move between models: on a DOL-001 all six are on the top side, but on a DOL-101 two of them (GP4 and GP6) come off the underside, so you will be flipping the board mid-job. And the v0.4 firmware changed the wiring — bridging GP6 and GP7 is no longer required, and most tutorial videos online predate that change. Follow the current official diagram, not YouTube. The full wire list, the colour key, the length limit and the Schottky-diode power option are on the PicoBoot card in the component data below.

Difficulty is intermediate soldering. If you want the capability without a permanent modification, a reversible solderless “PicoLoader” variant exists and is the better choice on a unit you intend to sell as stock-condition.

GCLoader — optical drive emulator

A full replacement for the Matsushita drive that presents itself as an original DVD drive and loads images off an SD card. The plug-and-play HW2 revision is largely solderless because it reuses the drive’s existing flex; the known gotcha is the mounting-plate fit, not the electronics. Fits DOL-001 and DOL-101.

The commercial case for this is strong and getting stronger: it sidesteps the single most common GameCube fault permanently, and original pickups are only getting older. On a unit with a marginal drive it is often the difference between a parts console and a premium one.

SD storage

All of these are passive SPI adapters hanging off the EXI bus, and the software (Swiss) has to support the device.

• SD Gecko — an SD card in a memory card slot. Works on any board including DOL-101, costs you one memory card slot, no soldering.
• SD2SP2 — hides under the console in Serial Port 2 and leaves both memory card slots free. DOL-001 only, and not even all of them: late DOL-CPU-30 boards have no SP2 either.
• DOL-101 internal SD mod — the workaround for cost-reduced boards. Seven wires to labelled vias on the underside, 26 AWG or thinner, run out through an existing bottom port to a microSD adapter, plus a 22 µF 25 V capacitor across 3.3 V and ground at the adapter end. That capacitor is in the instructions, not a suggestion. Intermediate soldering.

On the Panasonic Q there is a contradiction in my sources I have not resolved: the versions table and the ConsoleMods Q page both say all three expansion ports including SP2 remain available, while the PicoBoot install guide says SD2SP2 is not possible on a Q. The obvious reconciliation is that the Q’s completely different chassis blocks physical access to a port that is electrically still there, but that is my inference and not something a source states. Verify on the actual machine before you plan that install.

HDMI and digital video — where the money is

Every GameCube HDMI solution derives from GCVideo, an open FPGA core that reads the console’s digital video bus and emits HDMI. The commercial adapters differ mostly in packaging, so image quality between them is near-identical and you pick on price, form factor and mounting.

On a DOL-001 this is the highest-value, lowest-effort modification on the platform. Plug-in adapters — Carby, Prism, GCHD Mk-II, Dual MK-II — slot straight into the Digital AV Out port with zero soldering. That is why the port is the most resale-relevant piece of hardware on the machine.

On a DOL-101 there is no plug-in path at all. The options are an internal solder-in kit that taps the board’s video vias (the Retro GEM works on both models via a different via set; the Hispeedido kit is another both-model option), or a physical digital-port retrofit. All of those are advanced work: desoldering a port, drilling or filing the chassis, fine-pitch via work. Price it as advanced labour, because it is. The blunt version of the arithmetic: for a buyer who wants HDMI, buying a DOL-001 and a plug-in adapter is usually cheaper than internal-modding a DOL-101 to the same result. Say so when you are quoting.

Two more paths worth knowing about, and this is where I can point at something I actually sell:

• Composite to HDMI. Every GameCube, every region, DOL-101 included, puts out composite video on the Multi Out. With a standard Nintendo Multi Out composite cable, my composite AV-to-HDMI converter will get a DOL-101 onto a modern TV over HDMI without touching the board. Be straight about what that is, though: composite is a soft picture and this converter is not in the same class as a GCVideo adapter. It is the practical answer for a DOL-101 you do not want to open, not the good answer for a DOL-001 that has a digital port sitting right there. I also have not yet bench-measured its latency, so I am not selling it as a competition display.
• RGB SCART to HDMI, on a PAL console only. A PAL GameCube outputs native RGB over a standard PAL SNES RGB SCART cable, and that feeds my SCART-to-HDMI converter properly — this is a genuine RGB path with no soldering, capped at 240p and 480i because the GameCube does not do 480p over analog. The condition matters: this only applies to PAL machines. An NTSC GameCube has no native RGB, so on an NTSC console that converter is only ever carrying composite through a SCART cable, and the smaller composite unit does the same job for less. And use a PAL SNES RGB cable — an NTSC CSync cable on a PAL GameCube is the 12 V hazard from the safety section.

Region and language

The language strap (Japanese to English) is a resistor mod: R5 pulls the LANG line up through about 10 k and R6 pulls it down through 0 R, with 3.3 V meaning NTSC-J and 0 V meaning NTSC-U. Bridging R6 switches a Japanese console to English. Two caveats: this changes language only, not region lock, and the designators come from a single source, so confirm them against your actual board before you cut anything. For genuine region-free game loading you want PicoBoot plus Swiss, or an ODE.

Older drive chips, and what to do when you find one

XenoGC, Qoob and Viper GC predate PicoBoot. The XenoGC’s source was released openly in 2011, so the market flooded with clones, and those clones have known alignment problems over the drive’s debug footprint — a wired install is the recommendation even for a genuine one. If you open a unit and find a legacy drive chip, treat it as a soldering-quality risk rather than a feature, and consider replacing it with a clean PicoBoot install.

What actually changes value

Lead every listing with the board identification — DOL-001 or DOL-101, digital port present or absent — because that is what a modding buyer is actually paying for. Name the mods and be specific about which ones are reversible. And be honest about the recap: on a PAL DOL-101 logic board a “fully recapped mainboard” claim means exactly one capacitor, which is worth knowing before anyone pays a premium for the phrase.

Recap and parts

The headline: mostly you do not need to recap a GameCube, with one sharp exception.

The logic board carries only a handful of SMD electrolytics and they are generally reliable, so a mainboard recap is preventative rather than corrective. The internal DC-DC daughtercard is mostly polymer and tantalum, and both cap compilations I trust say service is usually unnecessary — recap it only if you see instability. The external brick is worth recapping if it is a tired vendor variant or the unit is dead or noisy, though swapping a brick is often cheaper than opening one.

The exception is the optical drive PCB. That board genuinely fails from bad capacitors, it is on ConsoleMods’ well-known-bad list, and it is the first thing to recap on any no-read unit. C238 (220 µF 4 V) is the named common culprit; tantalum or polymer is the durability upgrade the field favours there.

Priority order on a refurb bench, then: drive PCB first if the symptom is a read fault, DC-DC board only on instability, brick only if it is suspect, main board last and only as prevention.

Three things to carry into an order:

• Read the board before you buy parts. The population shrinks progressively across the revisions. An early NTSC board has C1, C3, C2, three 10 µF parts and C155/C156; a DOL-101 board is down to three capacitors; a PAL DOL-101 logic board has exactly one. A cap kit bought against the wrong revision leaves you short or long.
• The 2026 Console5 kit ships the small 10 µF parts as tantalum, and on a tantalum the marking bar is POSITIVE — the opposite convention from the aluminium electrolytics they replace. Three of those go on the logic board. Installing them by electrolytic habit puts all three in backwards. Read the insert.
• The standing recap rule applies here as everywhere: equal capacitance, equal or greater voltage, and keep the original dielectric type unless you are deliberately upgrading to polymer or tantalum for longevity.

Two non-capacitor parts are worth stocking if you turn units: the 50 x 10 mm 12 V fan, and a small PPTC in roughly the half-amp hold class for the front-panel fuse — though measure before you specify that one, because the OEM hold current is not documented anywhere I could cite.

The hard data behind all of the above — per-revision cap maps, the drive-board list, the brick variants, the connector pinouts and their confidence tags — is in the sections that follow. It is organised by board, because that is what decides the job.

Capacitor lists

Per board and per revision, not per model. The mainboard population shrinks as the revisions progress, and the drive PCB, the DC-DC daughtercard, the external brick and the Game Boy Player board each have their own list that does not track the mainboard revision at all — so they are grouped separately below.

Replacement parts

The non-capacitor parts a GameCube job actually consumes, and the two where the answer is “measure it first.”

Chip & connector pinouts

The component library: each connector and IC defined once, with a pin table and, where the package geometry supports it, an interactive diagram. The revision badge on each card shows which boards it applies to.

Read the confidence tags on this page carefully. With no OEM schematic in existence, several of these connectors have no published pinout at all, and those cards are deliberately empty with a note saying what would fill them.

Schematic facts

Reference confidence key

How to read the confidence tags and source citations on the data above. Note that nothing on this page is tagged bench: this device is documentation- derived and none of these figures are my own measurement.

Sources and further reading

These are the outside references I lean on for the GameCube. I link them rather than copy them.

• ConsoleMods: GameCube model differences (the DOL-001 versus DOL-101 port map)
• ConsoleMods: GameCube connector pinouts and Nintendo Multi Out
• ConsoleMods: GameCube video output and region information
• ConsoleMods: replacing capacitors (the well-known-bad list and sourcing guidance)
• GC-Forever wiki: GameCube versions (the definitive board-revision, port-config and IPL-CRC table)
• GC-Forever wiki: hardware acronyms (what every block inside Flipper actually does)
• GameSX: GameCube Digital AV connector (the only published full pin map for that port — read the confidence note above)
• GCVideo, ikorb (the open FPGA core behind every GameCube HDMI adapter; its hardware README is the corroborating source for pins 1 and 5)
• PicoBoot, webhdx and the installation guide
• RetroRGB: GameCube video output
• RetroSix wiki: GameCube capacitors (per-board capacitor tables; a vendor, so read the product comparisons as advertising)
• Console5 TechWiki: GameCube (the second independent cap compilation — the two agree value for value)
• debugmo.de: anatomy of an optical medium authentication (how the BCA and the YAG marks actually work)
• iFixit: GameCube (teardown, fan, drive and lens-recalibration guides)

If you would rather buy a console that has already had this work done, everything I restore is in the shop. I do not have GameCube listings up yet, and I will link them here when I do rather than pointing you at something that only nearly fits.